How Off-White’s Fall/Winter 2024 Show Subverted Gender Stereotypes

Ib Kamara’s Off-White Fall/Winter 2024 debut was playful and intentional. Kamara was inspired by a trip to Japan where he was struck by the magic and grace of local traditions and the influence America has on the country. In the show notes, he reflects on Black culture and its own subcultures. He writes: “I reflected on how much American culture, and from that Western culture, has been influenced by Black culture. Just think of music and style, from jazz to hip hop. Our work this season is an homage to such enduring and traveling influences, from a joyous and playful angle.” Titling this collection “Black By Popular Demand” is fitting given that the clothing ruminates on notions of Blackness and what African Americans have contributed to the nation.

The new lineup featured menswear and womenswear with the gender roles redefined. The women’s clothing was described by Kamara as “fierce and  powerful” while the men’s were “clean and roomy.” Women’s pieces like faux fur coats and jackets in lime green, child-like motifs like butterflies, flowers, and dice were added to chic skirts, turtlenecks, and tops. “In my idea of equality between the sexes, I aim at making women fierce and powerful as I soften men and possibly make them cuter, while playing with the Off-White™ distinctive codes such as the arrows, which become as useful and playful as straps or cross collars,” notes Kamara. 

The men’s offerings included cardigans, faux-fur paneled jackets, scarves, and child-centric motifs emblazoned on the clothing to add a whimsical element. In regard to Americana themes, Kamara collaborated with the Wilson sports brand on a basketball-holder bag and deconstructed basketballs for the debut of the “Baller” sneaker. There are nods to Abloh with the use of arrow motifs and a bright futuristic venue. Household names like Precious Lee, Joan Smalls, Jourdan Dunn, and designer Mowalola Ogunlesi who walked the runway. Celebrities including Serena Williams, Willow Smith, and her seatmate, Halle Bailey attended the presentation.

“This is a collection charged with energy and movement, bursting with vibrancy. In my vision, Off-White stands on its own, in a niche of luxury that is not quiet, and not even loud, but playful,” Kamara explains. “We are certainly not holding back in imagining fashion with a capital F, as in fun,” he added.

Overall, the collection was a culmination of Kamara’s creative ideas. The art and image director has managed to blend his world with Abloh’s in a distinctive way. This line isn’t too far removed from Abloh’s previously designed world which consisted of pieces with longstanding influence–the only difference this time is that Kamara is towing the line between masculine and feminine.