The Black Designers Reinterpreting How We See Denim – Essence

Denim has become a cornerstone of most people’s wardrobe. From denim jeans to jean jackets, the Canadian suit to denim accessories, it’s everywhere. It’s become an Americana symbol, an-all American Western mainstay, transcending trends for decades. The material is one of fashion’s most versatile fabrics around the world. We’ve been drawn to it much after its conception in the 17th century in Nîmes, France and much later grew into popularity in the 1950s, booming the denim industry within fashion. 

In the 1980s and 1990s, large oversized jeans were the waves, then in the early aughts, we loved low-rise jeans, as we reached the 2010s, high-waisted silhouettes were all that mattered. Now, denim has been taking new forms through the lens of Black designers. They’re using design tactics such as cutouts, patchwork, elegant pattern making, and modern takes on the Americana classics we all know and love. While these brands are all vastly different, each of their love for denim has us drawn to them equally. 

Emma Grede’s successful denim brand Good American provides an excellent example of the heights one can take their line. On day one the brand made $1 million–Grede and her ability to shift the denim industry through the launch of size-inclusive jeans was pivotal. Grede on the brand in a previous Glamour UK interview: “It was about taking what has been very traditionally created by men which are a very straight up and down pattern in denim and creating that with curvature in the body, in the pattern of the denim.”

Alexis Colby felt a need for a brand that truly spoke to her so she ended up releasing and founding Bit Of Denim in 2015. Adopting the ideology of breathing new life into a piece is what the brand stands firmly on. Through recycling and reconstruction, Colby’s denim pieces receive a sense of renewal with modern touches. This hit of modernity fits into the trend cycle seamlessly while creating timeless pieces.

“When I was in college, I started making custom denim shorts for all of the girls on campus, and when I moved to New York in 2015, I gave a denim theme to my apartment and made a rug and blankets out of vintage jeans,” Colby told Vogue. 

Most recently Colby used scrap denim fabric to create pieces outside of clothing including pillows and chair upholstery. 

Another designer who is reinventing denim as of late includes Sheila Rashid. The Chicago native’s brand centers around creating pieces that challenge gender narratives and identity. Stars such as Zendaya, Lena Waithe, and Sydney Colson have been spotted in the brand.

As far as her design origins she shares that she got into design in high school where she would hand paint on T-shirts and sell or give away to her peers. “ It was a way to express myself. I got more into sewing going into college. I started making clothes from scratch and knew I had a passion for it,” she said in an interview. 

Rashid’s 90’s hairstyles set grew in popularity after Colson was seen in it during a tunnel walk. While the designer creates pieces that are ready-to-wear, you can also order custom pieces to your liking and create wearable artwork through the designer’s creative process.

Founded by Glenn Liburd in 2019, Glenn’s Denim is a love letter to his 30-year infatuation with the fabric. Liburd is a denim connoisseur and has been studying the craft of denim for years before he decided to pursue launching his own brand.

Liburd was working behind the scenes cutting and sewing for other brands for years and at the spry age of 62, he decided to launch his first collection. This collection was inspired by American subcultures from the ‘70s and ‘80s in New York and San Francisco’s budding hip hop sounds.

On his site, a collage of images showcases the influences of Liburd, especially the New York origins. “I’m not about what’s in fashion—what’s on trend—what’s going to appeal to the masses. I’m about making the world’s very best pair of jeans here in America—and I’m about staying true to my own self in the process. That means we don’t compromise on quality, and we make the jeans we want to make, and nothing else,” Liburd shared on his site.

Separately, Telfar Clemens’ modular denim line was in the works for 20 years before its launch this year. Founded in 2004, the brand has taken shape to be one of the most known labels in the fashion industry. But what it accomplished with its denim line was creating yet another collection of genderless and subversive clothing. Their pieces often feature super short hemlines, oversized silhouettes, or cutouts right at the thigh for a double-take effect.

Clemens reimagined denim and launched a straight-leg jean with three panels in addition to a pair of short shorts, a capri, and a thigh-hole design. Also, the brand offered a cropped jacket plus a full-length denim jacket which included detachable sleeves. 

Though Telfar is known for their bags made for everyone, their denim pieces teeter between overtly sensual and boundary-pushing.