Jalil Johnson’s approach to style emphasizes the timelessness and novelty of evolving fashion eras. The New York-based writer and stylist has developed a history-informed signature on sartorial storytelling, referencing past practices in meaningful adornment in a world of fast fashion. Now, with a new acrostic jewelry collaboration with At Present, Jalil reintroduces his styling ethos through a conversation with the past—one where culture and deeply personal expression are worn on the body.
The Bold collection which is currently available online features avant-garde geometry and referential approach to haute joaillerie spell out an eponymous characterization of both collection and designer in blue sapphire, opal, lapis, and diamond (B-O-L-D).
Johnson regularly shares his musings on his blog, “Consider Yourself Cultured,” the textual component of his widening profile as a tastemaker. To look through his chronology of outfits is to see a throughline of historical intrigue with a contemporary application, bringing an almost anachronistic presence to an often hyper-cyclical fashion space. Acrostic jewelry holds a distinct place in fashion history as a relic of romanticism and mystery. The 18th-century design method uses gemstones to spell out messages, each gem representing a letter in a word or phrase. This new way to communicate without speaking allowed exchanging parties to bypass propriety and social expectations.
In conversation, Johnson says the ethos around the collection is reminding people to be themselves and also to not be afraid to hide. “A beautiful sentiment,” he adds. As an At Present stylist in residence Johnson has the unique task of introducing novel themes. These themes reflect the designers who comprise the digital marketplace and the evolving ways that jewelry is experienced today.
“We look for artists that have a distinct point of view,” says Marc Bridge, CEO of At Present. The fifth-generation jeweler founded the company as a curatorial home for emerging designers and stylists like Jalil. “We’re not interested in derivatives. We get excited when we meet someone who has a perspective on the world, and that perspective comes through clearly in the things they make.” This commitment to intentionality is woven into At Present’s ethos. Bridge continues, “There’s enough stuff in the world; we don’t want to add to the clutter. But we do want to share what we think are the best examples of great jewelry.”
Johnson’s approach to jewelry, particularly with his acrostic designs, feels like a natural alignment with At Present’s mission. The pieces he ideated for the BOLD collection partnership, geometric bangles, cigar rings, and earrings that spell out hidden messages in gemtonesaren’t just accessories but vehicles of personal storytelling.
Designing, and manufacturing the collection took over six months, centering on cohesive pieces that can be interchanged or stacked together. The message of “BOLD,” spelled out in a sequence of blue sapphire, opal, lapis, and diamond, is coupled with an art-deco angularity that brings a fresh element to the vintage tonality of the entire collection’s concept. They evoke a subversive take on luxury, channeling the significance of historical artifacts while bearing messages that transcend time. To bring the pieces to life, Jalil leaned on his ready-to-wear background while learning new pillars of design from At Present experts.
“Even though I cover a lot of categories in my work, my specialty comes down to the production of ready-to-wear,” Jalil says, referencing his early days as a Saks Fifth Avenue fashion assistant. The multihyphenate has traversed a world of fashion roles, starting at a public relations agency and then working in the V magazine fashion closet while completing his undergraduate studies at New York University. The jewelry design and production space is a natural progression for one who has navigated so many realms of the shopping and styling ecosystem.
“Learning more about the materials and what’s possible with shapes, considering the cost of materials—these were all things that the team at At Present taught me, and I’m really fortunate because from there I am learning even more on my own possibilities, and imbuing meaning with them.” Among his inspirations, Jalil references other innovative voices in jewelry design like Don’t Let Disco’s Ashley Harris or Bernard James’ eponymous line.
This new foray doubles as an exercise in skills-building as it is an homage to the expansive world of adornment. Within the array of unique elements chosen, Jalil set an intention with placements and positioning to maintain the acrostic format.
Johnson explains that if you look at the pieces from the collection, both the ring and the bangle, the blue sapphire is diagonally across from the lapis, and the opal is diagonally across from the diamond. He adds that he wanted these details to be symmetric and to play off of one another. “I can see the idea that a person would wear the ring with the stones facing outwards–so that people would see it.”
It was important to all parties in the partnership to introduce something different to the global jewelry market, and it seems the BOLD collection is already living up to its name and doing so. Marc Bridge speaks to the monotony of the industry he observed before launching At Present, and is now able to disrupt the space with compelling collections like Jalil’s.
“Jalil’s point of view is distinctly his own and we love it,” Bridge says excitedly. “He embraces jewelry, clothing, and life with a passion and boldness that is contagious.” When further describing what led to the partnership Bridges also says it is due to Johnson being well-versed in the history of jewelry. He notes that Jalil has a vision for the kinds of things that should exist in the world.
“The jewelry world was a sea of sameness,” Marc tells ESSENCE. “Everywhere I went I saw the same things, whether that was in the mall jewelers or in the global luxury brands. They didn’t excite me.”
With Marc’s expertise in sourcing of high-quality stones and constructing pieces from fine metals, Jalil and others can craft heirlooms that speak to unique moments across changing periods of time. The act of transferral was a core intention of Jalil’s and speaks to his overall approach to style.
