In the ever-evolving world of beauty, multi-tasking products have become a staple in our routines. From foundations that promise flawless coverage to lip balms with a hint of color, convenience is key. Among these innovations, SPF makeup has surged in popularity, offering the appeal of sun protection combined with your favorite cosmetics. It sounds like a dream: one product that not only enhances your look but also shields your skin from harmful UV rays. But is it too good to be true?
To answer this, ESSENCE turned to Dr. Reshmi Kapoor, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Brooklyn Dermatology in Greenpoint, Brooklyn. With her expertise, we dive deep into the science behind SPF in makeup and uncover whether it’s really enough to keep your skin safe under the sun.
SPF in Makeup: Genuine Protection or Just Hype?
Dr. Kapoor quickly clears up a common misconception: while SPF in makeup can offer some protection, it’s not enough on its own. “Theoretically, if makeup has both SPF 30 and is broad-spectrum, meaning it protects against both UVA and UVB rays, it meets the criteria to protect skin,” she explains. However, there’s a significant catch. “Sunscreen ratings and SPF are determined by applying a standard amount of 2mg/cm², which is roughly two finger-length squeezes of product to cover the face and neck. The issue is that the amount of makeup people typically apply would not provide enough protection.”
In other words, to achieve the SPF protection advertised on your makeup, you would need to apply it so thickly that it would leave you with an unnatural, cakey look.
Comparing Makeup With SPF To Traditional Sunscreen
So, how does SPF in makeup compare to traditional sunscreen? Dr. Kapoor emphasizes that while both products can offer broad-spectrum protection, the difference lies in the application. “People rarely apply makeup with SPF to areas like the eyelids and ears, which are just as vulnerable to sun damage. Furthermore, even if a product is labeled ‘broad-spectrum,’ if you’re not applying enough, you’re not getting the protection you need.”
Her advice? Use a traditional sunscreen as your first layer of defense. “Apply about half a teaspoon or two finger-length squeezes of sunscreen to cover your face and neck, then layer your makeup with SPF on top.”
How You Apply SPF Really Counts
Dr. Kapoor also highlights the importance of application. “The amount of sunscreen applied is critical. FDA testing requires sunscreens to be applied at 2mg/cm² to achieve their advertised SPF level. For most people, this equates to half a teaspoon of product just for the face and neck.”
As for makeup with SPF, the reality is that most of us simply aren’t applying enough to get the full benefit. And without reapplication every two hours—especially when outdoors, sweating, or swimming—your protection diminishes.
What to Look For In Your SPF Makeup
If you’re relying on makeup with SPF, Dr. Kapoor advises looking for specific ingredients and formulations. “Choose products with at least SPF 30 and broad-spectrum protection. For those with darker skin tones, makeup containing iron oxides or pigmentary titanium dioxide can offer additional protection against visible light, which is crucial for preventing hyperpigmentation.”
However, even with these formulations, the same issue persists: the amount of makeup applied typically won’t suffice for adequate sun protection.
The Bottom Line: Don’t Rely Solely On Makeup With SPF
Dr. Kapoor’s final takeaway is clear: makeup with SPF should not be your sole form of sun protection. “For outdoor activities, especially those involving water or excessive sweating, traditional sunscreen is a must. Makeup with SPF is best used as a supplementary layer, not your primary defense.”
While makeup with SPF can offer some benefits, it’s not a substitute for traditional sunscreen. So, next time you’re getting ready in the morning, reach for that bottle of sunscreen first—your skin will thank you.
