In 2019, fluffy lash extensions were all the rave and became an explosive trend that dominated the lash business over the next few years. Wispy hybrids, classic sets, 35mm minks, and more, lash extensions provided a semi-permanent alternative to strip lashes and mascara. With this new technique, you could wake up and go with a fluttery eye look that lasted for several weeks. Extensions varied in style from the sultry yet subtle cat eye hybrids to the theatrical, thick, dark fans. The appeal of extensions is that makeup-ready look, all the time, without the daily application.
Now, extensions, though still in rotation, have gradually decreased in popularity in light of alternatives that require even lower maintenance. Surging costs and plummeting economic opportunities activated by the onset of the 2020 pandemic caused a halt in beauty services altogether, which many professionals note across specialties. Due to these factors and the overall change in daily life, clients are opting for lower maintenance, at even lower costs. With the introduction of lash lifts, clients are able to achieve mascara-like results for an extended time.
Aesthetician Jas Imani, who specializes in and recommends lifts, breaks down the differences between the two services. “With lash lifts, there is no significant lifestyle change. After 24 hours, you can resume your usual routines, including getting them wet or using oils. Lash extensions require more care. Generally, you should avoid oils, clean them properly using a lash shampoo, avoid sleeping on them, and refrain from rubbing your eyes,” she explains. “Lash lifts require no ongoing maintenance and last 6-8 weeks, costing between $150-200. Lash extensions need fills every 2-3 weeks. The initial set costs $150-250 on average, depending on the style and fills range from $80-150.”
Looking at the contrast in pricing and maintenance between the two methods, it is understandable why this shift is occurring. Still, when considering the health of the lashes, no one method is healthier than the other, rather it depends on the individual’s upkeep. Aestheticians Jas Imani and Raven Roth advise lift clients to maintain proper moisturization such as using coconut oil, and underscore the importance of washing extensions daily to avoid permanent damage to the natural lashes.
Roth, who specializes in both extensions and lifts, still has consistent clients opting for both techniques, and believes that the decision lies in the occasion. For everyday wear, many clients prefer lash lifts, but for special occasion looks, they will elect extensions. “When it comes to lash extensions, most times [clients] also have their makeup and hair done, they’re getting married, going to a birthday—they’re more glammed up.
Sometimes lashes may be too heavy, depending on the style you’re getting, for your everyday look, so clients will go for a lash lift just because it is simpler,” she contextualizes. She also notes the evolution in lash extension styles. A majority of her lash extension clients today are also shifting toward lashes styles that are more natural-looking, wispy, and suit their eye shape, as opposed to the standard thicker styles.
Additionally, Roth highlights a style that is increasing in popularity that has yet to be mentioned widely: lash clusters. Lash clusters are pre-assembled lash fans (a set of faux lashes joined together) that can be applied individually across the lash line for a fuller look. A hybrid between extensions and strips, lash clusters offer consumers the opportunity to recreate the wispy lash extension look at home and for a fraction of the cost. Easily applicable and a much shorter shelf life, clusters afford consumers about a week’s worth of wear that can be removed and reduce the potential of build up, so long as applied properly.
Both beauty professionals point to the “no makeup” makeup look and clean girl aesthetic trends for the aesthetic push towards lash lifts and simpler styles. These trends find appeal in beauty looks that give off an effortless appearance, despite the reality of the application process. One may agree that these “effortless” beauty trends are the precursors to the “undetectable” era we are stepping into via cosmetic enhancements as well. The girls want to look flawless, yet natural—a seemingly contradictory look that professionals across services have been able to achieve through the art of subtly.
Imani’s ultimate recommendation to clients is to try out lash lifts. “A lash lift is a great way to understand your natural lashes and develop better habits for growth and thickness.”
Roth’s recommendations depend on the clients’ goals and state of their current lashes, but above all, she emphasizes the importance of proper maintenance, no matter the technique.
The decision between lash styles is entirely up to the client, however, proper knowledge about all techniques, the maintenance they require, and understanding the health status of your own lashes can go a long way.
