The saying goes a picture is worth 1,000 words. To the inaugural festivities of President Donald Trump, U.S. Supreme Court Justice Ketanji Brown Jackson was spotted wearing a striking collar with matching earrings. Comprised of cowrie shells, the collar was elegant and a unique take on garbs worn during monumental, history-defining moments.
For many of us stateside Martin Luther King Jr. Day is a moment to breathe and at times peel back a layer and rest. The activist and longstanding influential figure Martin Luther King Jr. its even provides time to reflect on the wealth of knowledge, politics, and truth-telling that he left us with–after all, that’s a part of his legacy. While some women who are now sitting at the precipice of power donned custom pieces by Sergio Hudson and Oscar de la Renta, Justice Brown chose not to do so. This is a worthy statement and a notable example of political dressing.
Cowrie shells are a distinct accessory, they’re often blended into hairstyles such as braids. Or, in some instances, they emerge as earrings, or perhaps even are emblazoned on clothing such as T-shirts and beyond. However, this moment allotted for them to have more possibility, to be chosen to be worn as an outward flex of inner strength.
While Justice Jackson’s cowrie shell collar is not credited to any particular brand, their influence on Monday isn’t understated. As early as the 14th century cowrie shells were used on Africa’s western coast, according to the National Museum of African American History & Culture. They were also traded for goods and services throughout Africa, Asia, Europe, and Oceania. Due to their small size and durability, they served as currency. Their relevance also sate beyond being used as money. They even represented power in trade: Europeans in the 16th century used cowries to enter African trade markets. Shells were used to purchase goods, which included people.
Historians speculate that cowrie shells were viewed as a talisman to resist enslavement. Africans used them as charms for protection. This is where their strength lies. And here also lies the messaging represented by Justice Jackson wearing them, especially as a descendant of slaves. An accessory implicating resistance on a day representing Martin Luther King Jr. is significant. And it alludes to the long-established value of cowrie shells in tandem with Justice Ketanji Brown Jackson’s unique position of power.
