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I Took A Trip To The World’s Perfume Capital – Essence

rmtsa by rmtsa
June 3, 2025
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I Took A Trip To The World’s Perfume Capital – Essence
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Courtesy of Stixx Mathews

Let me tell you about my collection of over 300 perfumes — and yes, I wear every single one. From running errands in SoHo and working from my Brooklyn apartment, to stepping out for dinner at Carbone, I’ve got a scent for every moment.

But those who know me very well know about my true love affair with rose-scented perfumes. And I mean deep, passionate, can’t-live-without-it love. My friends know that if there’s even a whisper of rose in a fragrance’s notes, I’m already sold. Trust me when I say I’ve turned even the biggest rose skeptics into believers. My nose? She never lies.

This obsession recently led me to the most fabulous adventure in the South of France, courtesy of Matiere Premiere. There, I explored Nice, Pays de Grasse, and Saint Tropez. The highlight? Getting my hands dirty (still making it chic, of course) harvesting roses in Pays de Grasse.

Back in New York, I’d met two of the founders — world renowned perfumer Aurélien Guichard and Caius von Knorring — who shared the story behind their iconic “French Flower” and “Radical Rose” scents. Along with Saint Tropez native Cédric Meiffret, they would meet in Pays de Grasse (the perfume capital of the world), sip rosé by Guichard’s family rose fields, and dream up what would become their iconic brand. There I was, about to experience it all firsthand.

When that itinerary hit my inbox, I knew my usual comfort wear wasn’t going to cut it. This was Côte d’Azur, baby — cameras would be everywhere and your boy needed to serve looks. After resting from that 8-hour flight from JFK to Nice (which felt like forever), the next day, we took a quick 15-minute ride to Pays de Grasse, and the magic was just beginning.

The moment we pulled up to those rose fields, I was living my best French fantasy. But first things first — “un café au lait, s’il vous plaît” (about the only French I know). They had laid out this gorgeous spread of coffee and pastries before splitting us into groups. I landed in Cédric Meiffret’s group, and he and Guichard took us through the creative atelier where all the magic happens.

Let me break down this “Radical Rose” process for you — it’s not just picking some flowers and calling it a day. We’re talking about Rose Centifolia that takes 15-to-17 years to reach its peak. The harvest? Just 30 days starting in May. The Guichard family has been in this game for generations, creating some of the most iconic scents you’ve probably got in your collection right now.

When it was finally time to harvest, baby, I was ready. They gave me this cute little straw hat and apron situation and for the next hour, I was living my best rose-picking life. The scent was unlike anything I’ve experienced — imagine the freshest red lipstick mixed with the creamiest coffee. Heavenly.

After weighing our harvest (don’t ask me how much, everything was in French), we had this dreamy lunch by the rose fields that looked straight out of a magazine. Then we headed to Saint Tropez for the grand finale: the opening of Matiere Premiere’s first store.

The boutique was giving minimalist luxury, housed adjacent to Cédric’s family home that’s been there for centuries. We celebrated in their family’s rooftop garden until the rain said “not today” and forced us into this nearby discotheque. Did I spend the night dancing and reapplying “Radical Rose” hoping to catch a wealthy vacationer’s attention? Maybe so.

While I didn’t leave with a French beau, I did score something better — memories for days and the full “Radical Rose” body care set to keep the fantasy alive back home. And if that’s not a perfect ending to this story, I don’t know what is.



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