In the wake of the viral Labubu craze, Black-owned brand Yaito has entered the chat. When I first saw their take on trendy dolls in the form of mid-sized bears in bandana prints, I was fascinated. I immediately thought back to the patchwork blankets many of us Black Americans used as kids. But my mind also wandered to the 2000s, a time when bandanas were heavily worn. My initial nostalgic feelings led me to also think about the free-style design roots of Tulie and Carlton Yaito, the designers behind the namesake label.
The duo carved out their lane years back when fashion was getting familiar with the idea of drops. 2020 was a banner year for them; that same year, they were featured in Coveteur for their eccentric and intricately designed custom jackets. Fast-forward to the present, and their creations are still in demand. Yes, this forthcoming release capitalizes on the meteoric rise of bag charms. But, there’s also a deeper significance behind the label designing this accessory: the teddy bear was initially designed in 2023. In an email, Carlton also shared that the design has been on ice since then.
Tulie adds that now is the ideal time to launch the design, especially with the ongoing obsession with bag charms. Yaito has been receiving inquiries from its customers about accessories, too. In August, Yaito’s seemingly omnipresent customer base will be able to purchase the mid-size paisley bear online. The label has shared that pricing will be in the $100 range.
Paisley has always been the core of the Yaito business. To Carlton, it derives from his fascination with Visvim and Kapital, two Japanese labels he admires. He notes that in Japanese culture, there isn’t a stigma associated with gang culture when paisley is used for design purposes. “Paisley has such a massive and illustrious history,” Carlton shared. The designer also declared that what it represents in some American cultures does make people stay away from it. “Maybe it’s naïve, but we’ve always wanted to destigmatize paisley, not to disrespect anyone else’s culture but [to allow] all people to enjoy its beautiful design language.”
Interestingly enough, the duo doesn’t see themselves in conversation with the global fashion industry. Instead, Carlton says that his design work is his own medium of expression. “We’re still slow walking our ascension,” he notes. And the bears are Yaito’s latest creation, speaking specifically to their audience. From the designer’s vantage point, he has a love for creativity that he doesn’t want stripped. In the wake of brands creating for mass consumption, this perspective is pointedly a key source of inspiration. “We’re very much the underdogs, in cruise control,” Tulie adds. “[We’re] steadily growing the brand quietly but efficiently.”
Is this embrace of trending accessories a large swing? Not exactly. Many of the items the duo has released have swiftly sold out. Both Carlton and Tulie’s innate interest in showing up authentically while creating fun designs is what led them here. The former shared that his design work can also be described as a feeling. And he allows these instinctual inclinations to push him for years.
“We always know instantly when something feels right, when we have a hit,” Tulie shares. She agrees that the paisley bear feels right.
