The Throughline At MFW Wasn’t Spring-Ready Essentials – Essence

The throughline at Milan Fashion Week might have been the whimsy clothing that went down the runway at numerous presentations. Despite the many differences between garments, designers didn’t hold back regarding their design prowess. There was a level of experimentation that felt deeply impressive–however, codes that are the usual suspects were equally prevalent. Milan made way for refreshing designs that didn’t feel stuffy, instead, the offerings were unpretentious and a bit voicy. The latter especially speaks to the ability of designers such as Maximillian Davis’ Ferragamo to shine rather than getting swallowed up by the jam-packed MFW calendar. 

Ballerina core was revived and given new life at Ferragamo’s Spring/Summer 2025 presentation. Taking inspiration from American dancer and choreographer Katharine Dunham, Davis showcased an elegant wardrobe fitting for off-duty ballerinas. This collection was perhaps my favorite to come out of MFW–as a former dancer who studied ballet for nearly 10 years, it spoke to me. The textured outerwear in addition to the succinct pairing of deep brown with blush pink was aesthetically pleasing, a deep maroon hue and cherry red were even utilized in compelling ways. Some of the fitted pieces in the collection such as bodysuits were interesting–and so were the dresses that floated eloquently on model’s forms which delved into refined territory. 

The Attico’s collection seemed to be the polar opposite of Ferragamo’s. The clothing by Giorgia Tordini and Gilda Ambrosio felt like the armor stylish women should look to for a new chapter in their lives. If one is entering a new era following a seismic shift in their life such as a new role, or perhaps a breakup, the collection is worthy enough to look to. Baby pinks, canary yellows, and rich grays were the chosen tones. With this color palette, a sophisticated collection was allowed to take form. Sheer skirts and dresses in addition to caged heels made up a few of the most riveting and sensual pieces from the seasonal arrivals.

Donatella Versace ushered in a spring that will be marked by off-kilter statement pieces. Office-ready pairings were displayed on models: smart jackets, a sky blue low-rise suit, printed cardigans, and sheer red tights. Though this collection didn’t feel quite like spring, it left an impression. Sequins even exist in Donatella’s depiction of next spring and so do lilac platform sandals. A camel brown leather jacket worn with cut-off shorts and a rich blue button-up offers an outfit for someone who marches to the beat of their own drum. 

The relaxed and pared-back suiting at Bottega Veneta was meaningful. Much of this collection toyed between office-appropriate garments such as trousers, silken dresses, and strong outerwear–these arrivals were juxtaposed with colorful sweater sets and also frilly textures seen on skirts, coats and beyond. The headpieces worn with some looks appeared to pay homage to creatures one would dream up during their childhood. One asymmetrical wrap skirt worn with pants felt like a declaration of sorts. And so did the oversized nature of nearly each piece that went down the runway, is it cool to wear enlarged trousers and other day-to-day choices? According to Matthieu Blazy, yes.