In 2020, the U.S. government estimated that nearly nine million citizens live abroad, and of that, nearly 700,000 are Black Americans. Even before James Baldwin and Josephine Baker fled to France, Black people had sought the American dream beyond America’s shores. Some, today, are seeking a better life in a place where their blackness is the norm and the racial tensions of the U.S. feel almost non-existent—South Africa.
While South Africa is no stranger to racial tensions, especially with the country’s most famous citizen being the late activist and former president, Nelson Mandela, the South Africa of today is providing many Black women with a sense of belonging they weren’t quite able to achieve at home. “The constant stress of living in America, both from the politics and the pressure, has eased. Here, I’ve met like-minded people who are open, curious, and grounded,” says 48-year-old Yama C., who just made the destination home in October. “In L.A., my circle was solid, but Cape Town has given me the chance to meet new people and build unexpected, genuine friendships.”
ESSENCE caught up with a few Black women to find out how their search for connection, culture, and roots led them to the “Rainbow Nation,” and why they can’t see themselves calling anywhere else home.
Kenna Williams, 48
Former Aerospace Engineer and current travel industry entrepreneur
Some of life’s greatest adventures begin with heartbreak. After losing her mother in 2018 and being told she was replaceable at work after requesting an extended leave of absence to grieve, Kenna Williams was fired up and determined to start over in Malaysia. However, a chance meeting with a South African man turned into a short-lived whirlwind romance and engagement that set her on a path she wasn’t expecting. “We parted ways amicably, but I decided hey, I am going to move to South Africa anyway,” she says. “I put in my paperwork for a South African visa. I had been there many times, knew several people, liked the food, atmosphere, and I felt I could thrive here.” Now, six years later, she wants other Black women to join her in the freedom she’s experiencing living in the country. “It’s your time. You’ve been waiting, wishing, thinking, researching, and even reading this now. Take this as your sign to get up and go!”
ESSENCE: So many people are looking to move abroad, but don’t know where to start. What did you do to prepare for the move?
Kenna Williams: The biggest thing for me is I am a planner and I do not like going anywhere unprepared. I can hear my father’s voice in my head saying, “Whatever you do, make sure you have enough money to get back home, no matter where you are, if that’s overseas or just across town at a party.” Money for me was the biggest thing, so I started saving as much as I could and tried not to do unnecessary things. I paid down some debt I had and more. When I got close to leaving, I sold one of my cars so I was able to take funds from that. I also sold my furniture, TVs, house accessories and more. I did have substantial savings for this, so I was prepared. I own a business, so seeking employment wasn’t an option for me in South Africa. I do find that most of my friends in South Africa are either self-employed, remote workers, or financially independent. I only know of two people who actually work for entities in South Africa. Another thing is researching a visa that will allow you to stay there long-term. A lot of people like to do visa runs, but that’s tricky. I found a visa that gave me four years.
On average, what are your monthly costs living in South Africa? What costs have been most surprising to you?
This is a great question! Rough estimates: WIFI/fiber R700=$40, electricity/water R1300=$75 (would be less but I’m running my AC!), car insurance R2000=$115, petrol/gas R2000=$115 (purely guessing because I don’t always drive), and weekly groceries are about $50-$60 a week (could be less but I’m shopping at particular stores). I don’t have a mortgage because I paid off my apartment, but if I did, the rent would be about $ 1,500. When I first moved to South Africa, I rented a small furnished one-bedroom apartment, and that was about $600 or so. Healthcare has been the most affordable cost to me. I don’t even wait. If I want to get a second opinion, I just go. I had a medical issue that had been bothering me for years. A doctor in South Africa said what I was told wasn’t right, and he had me checked out immediately. I paid $71 to a doctor to discover the source of my years-long pain.
What things do you think Americans should consider and prepare themselves for if they move to South Africa?
The biggest thing is to respect the culture, specifically as it pertains to the past history of Apartheid. It’s only been 30 years since it ended, and sometimes you might see some remnants of this. We can be quick to question why, but do not realize America, too, is still reeling from the sins of the past and present, actually. South Africa on TV might not be the real South Africa you might be living in. There are issues with load shedding when the power goes out, but you can avoid this by living somewhere with a generator. Stores close early, so don’t expect to find a mall open past 7 p.m. or 8 p.m. There is stark poverty here as well. You might be in a nice high-rise building, and less than a mile away is a neighborhood full of shacks, no running water, etc. You will give up some of your conveniences for more freedom in your life. Despite this, you can have a great life here, and it will be what you make it.
Tracey Mutombo, 47
Creative Director
They say when you plan, God laughs. For Columbia, South Carolina native Tracey Mutombo, the laughter was loud when she found herself unexpectedly stuck in Johannesburg at the end of a three-week trip. But what started out as a major inconvenience turned into the best decision that Mutombo has ever made. She still longs for the pieces of home that hold her heart: “I miss my church, my family and my friends,” she says. “Oh, and Jamaican food. Because nobody does curry goat like Brooklyn.” Still, the new wife and mom can’t imagine living her unplanned life anywhere else. Her advice for Black women considering moving to South Africa? “Even if it’s temporary, move and see what it feels like to exhale and be surrounded by Blackness, possibility, and peace. Sometimes you have to leave home to truly find your place of rest.”
ESSENCE: The journey to you moving to South Africa wasn’t exactly the traditional one. Tell us how you got “stuck” in South Africa for life.
Tracey Mutombo: I came to Johannesburg for a three-week trip in March 2020 and never left. It was supposed to be my last trip before I put away my passport, got a job, and started acting like a real adult. Four days before my flight home, the world shut down. By the time I packed my bags to head to the airport, the borders were closed for six months. I thought I was stuck in Joburg, but it turns out I was just finally home.
What are some challenges that you’ve faced, and what should Black women prepare themselves for if they move to Johannesburg?
The biggest challenge for me has been maintaining my relationships with friends and family back home. While the love is the same, if you’re not intentional about staying connected while abroad and have real face time when you’re home, it’s easy to lose that closeness you have when your loved ones are a car, subway, or short plane ride away.
Also, start your visa application now. While the process has improved somewhat in the last year, it can still be notoriously long and confusing. Give yourself time to get those papers in order and be prepared to make “visa runs” and leave the country every 90 days until you have a long-term visa approved.
In another life, you were the co-creator of CURLFEST, so you know Black hair. How easy or difficult is it to find curl-friendly products? Are they expensive? What items do you suggest Black women bring with them when they move?
The beauty scene here in Joburg is incredible, with an impressive selection of products for natural hair, not-so-natural hair, and everything in between! But the beauty supply stores can’t touch the variety of what we have in the States. For anyone looking to move, I suggest bringing your favorites with you on your first trip, then check out the Clicks and Dis-Chem pharmacies to see what’s available and how much everything costs.
What parts of South African culture do you love and have adopted? What parts still confuse you?
I love how the culture here is focused so much more on life than work. Rush hour starts around 3 p.m., and working late and on weekends doesn’t earn you a badge of honor. I also love the sense of community. It’s called Ubuntu, and it shows up in how people have cared and looked out for me without knowing me for very long. The emotional walls I experience in America are a lot shorter here. And it’s easier to connect with new people. I love it.
The only part that confuses me is the xenophobia. Many people have this disdain for Black people from other countries that I don’t understand. My husband is from the Democratic Republic of Congo, and it’s been heartbreaking to hear some of his experiences. You’d think a continent full of us would be united, but there’s a lot of division that I’m sure has a lot of history behind it. I blame colonialism and the erasure of African history in America for my ignorance, but I’m taking every opportunity I can to be more informed now that I’m living here.
Jae Scott, 38
Marketing strategist, community builder, and events consultant
Living a life filled with passion and purpose has always been the goal for Washington, D.C. native Jae Scott. She craved a life that felt more intentional and held deep meaning, which led her to move to South Africa. While her family was initially nervous about the change, they eventually came around. “Over time, seeing me happy and grounded here helped ease their concerns. Now, they love sharing that I live in South Africa. I think they’re secretly proud,” she says. Now, five years later, she’s found exactly what she was searching for and has grown so much in the process. “I’ve learned that patience is a power move, community is currency, and rest is productive. Living here I’ve become more self-assured and less apologetic, I listen more—to people, to rhythm, to myself and I’ve developed a deeper sense of gratitude for simplicity,” says Scott.
If you ask her why Black women should follow in her footsteps, her answer is simple. “You can redefine ‘home’ anywhere you choose. South Africa offers space emotionally, spiritually, and creatively. There’s a certain freedom when you see yourself beyond survival mode. You can thrive here in ways that feel deeply affirming. You deserve to live expansively.”
ESSENCE: What made you decide to take the initial leap to move abroad?
Jae Scott: I reached a point where I wanted to create a life that felt more intentional. One that aligned with purpose and peace rather than just pace. I’d visited South Africa before and was deeply moved by the culture, the energy, and the potential to build something meaningful here. That curiosity turned into courage, and I decided to take the leap. When I came to explore the possibility, two weeks later, the world shut down because of COVID, and I took it as confirmation that I was meant to stay. I considered a few countries, but South Africa stood out. Johannesburg in particular had a blend of cosmopolitan energy and cultural depth that reminded me of home, yet offered something completely different. It felt like a place where creativity, business, and community could coexist and where I could both contribute and grow.
What are some challenges you’ve faced since moving to South Africa?
Adjusting to new systems and timelines took patience. Things move differently here. There were also moments of loneliness early on, especially being far from family. But each challenge became an invitation to grow stronger and build deeper roots.
What should Americans consider or prepare for before moving?
Understand that South Africa is not a monolith. It’s layered, complex, and evolving. Come with humility and an open mind. Be mindful of the exchange rate and local job market, and prepare to navigate a bit of bureaucracy. If you stay open, it’s incredibly rewarding. If I had to give any tips, I’d say:
Research beyond the headlines – understand the culture, cost of living, and visa logistics.
Build a safety net – both financially and emotionally.
Join online communities – expat groups and locals who can help you land softly.
Declutter your expectations – things work differently here, and that’s okay.
Pack curiosity – it’ll open more doors than confidence ever could.
What does a typical day look like for you, and how is it different from your days in America?
My days start slower. I pray and meditate around 5 a.m. That quiet time grounds me before the world wakes up. After that, I dive into work: strategy meetings, creative planning, or events. Evenings are for connection, dinner with friends, or discovering a new spot in the city. Life here feels more balanced; I’ve traded hustle for harmony.
What has the dating scene been like? How is it different from home?
Dating here is an adventure! People are very direct and confident, which can be refreshing. Cultural differences make it interesting, but at the end of the day, it’s all about connection and communication, no matter where you are.
Yama C., 48
Sports and Entertainment Producer, Luxury Travel Consultant, and Founder of Progressive Travellers
As an avid traveler and owner of Progressive Travellers, Yama always knew that the U.S. would not be her forever home. After years of traveling for work, which took her to 15 countries around Africa, it was South Africa that captured her heart and finally inspired her to take the leap abroad. “I’ve learned many cultures, their history, and the vibe of each place, but South Africa always stood out. It’s the most developed, which means I don’t have to sacrifice comfort or amenities, and it just felt like home from the moment I landed for the first time,” she says. And now, only weeks in, Yama can already feel the weight of her old life floating away and is looking forward to adjusting to a new life in Cape Town. “I’m excited to fully settle in and to reach that point where it doesn’t feel like an extended stay but truly home. Once my long-term visa is finalized, I can finally exhale, breathe, and enjoy the best of what Africa has to offer without feeling rushed. There’s a balance of beauty, sophistication, and energy here that’s hard to find anywhere else. It’s definitely my place!”
ESSENCE: Has it been difficult finding your tribe in South Africa?
Yama C.: Not at all. I’m naturally social. There’s a strong expat community here, as well as Black Greek organizations. I’m a proud member of Alpha Kappa Alpha Sorority, Inc., which helps create an instant sense of familiarity. Between local events, fellow travelers, and making friends of friends, I found my peeps faster than I expected.
What challenges are you facing right now?
Honestly, slowing down has been the biggest adjustment. In the States, we’re conditioned to stay busy and chase titles, achievements, and material items. Here, I’m slowly deprogramming myself to value relationships, community, and peace of mind over constant productivity and an old definition of success. It’s hard to unlearn capitalism, but I’m embracing it. I’m also currently applying for a long-term visa, which would allow me to stay in South Africa well beyond the standard three months granted to U.S. citizens. If it’s approved, it’ll be an absolute game-changer!
Many women worry about safety in South Africa. What’s been your experience?
Safety is a valid concern, but as a frequent traveler, I’m cautious no matter where I am. People forget that cities in the U.S. can be just as wild. I’m from Atlanta and lived in Los Angeles, both places where you need to stay alert depending on where you are. South Africa is no different. The key is to move smart: choose a building with security if that’s a concern, avoid being flashy, and be aware of who you let into your private spaces and circles.
How long do you see yourself in South Africa?
Hopefully indefinitely! My goal is to secure permanent residency and plant roots here. I could see myself exploring another city like Nairobi one day, but for now, Cape Town feels like exactly where I’m meant to be.
