Kaphill, Rendoll and Arch NYC Reveal New Designs At The Folklore’s Latest Showroom

The Folklore, a platform that specializes in expanding the businesses of African designers recently wrapped its latest New York Fashion Week showroom. For the Fall/Winter 2024 season, Amira Rasool, founder and CEO shares that a total of 23 brands were represented. Upon visiting the immersive Soho space that was chosen, it was nearly filled to the brim with clothing, footwear, and accessories. Many of the designers were also present throughout the week, which provided a unique opportunity for them to connect with individuals who could potentially change the course of their business.

“Our focus is being able to bring together people who are typically marginalized [and] unable to have a space to meet top buyers and editors,” Rasool said. “They’re either geographically marginalized or racially marginalized [and] unable to have a space to meet top buyers and editors. We have buyers coming in, we have so many of our retailers coming in to see brands, some brands they’ve already picked up from coming to our previous showrooms,” she adds. 

The Folklore has secured retail partnerships with Shopbop, Bergdorf Goodman, Nordstrom, and more. These partnerships allow brands to offer their products globally, which will allot them the chance to expand beyond their home country.

Within the showroom, Rendoll, a Nigerian womenswear brand was a standout amongst all of the designers. Its FW24 offerings included flared dresses, crop tops, and skirts in assorted hues like maroon, light yellow, and a stunning orange tone. One piece in their latest collection was a multi-layered, strapless drop waist dress in black. Another ensemble that captured my full attention was a drop waist dress created with a blood orange bottom and a lighter tone at the top.

“This is the collection where I double down on who I design for and my intent,” Krystal Phillips of Kaphill said. “It is for Black women and empowering them to step out of the box society put them in.” Phillips was inspired by the female form when she was putting together her newest collection. Vibrant pieces like a wool coat in the unexpected color teal, and a multi-colored wool coat in brown and tan were a part of Kaphill’s latest lineup. One staple that caught my eye was a multi-colored striped sweater with hints of yellow, salmon pink, and teal throughout.

Jazmin Veney’s Arch NYC is another rising brand worth keeping an eye on. Veney has been focusing on designing wearable statement shoes since she launched in 2018. Last year, the designer launched her Lovestruck heel in black, which includes a unique open-heart design. At the showroom, she previewed a boot with a similar design on the sole. When explaining who she creates footwear for, Veney says she designs for city women who are always on the go.

As a whole, this year’s showroom was a calm respite from the back-to-back presentations that marked my calendar. The warm energy that emitted from the space was an ideal atmosphere for returning brands and newer brands alike. In an industry that feels swift-paced, it was refreshing to be introduced to the faces behind companies that are currently emerging.

“We wanted to choose a space in Soho because we wanted to make sure that it was very easy for anyone who is attending shows in Tribeca to be able to easily get there,” Amira shares. “That’s what The Folklore is all about, accessibility [and] removing any excuse to not support diverse brands.”

The brands that joined the showroom this season included Arch NYC, Boyde, Favelo, Forever Amelia, House of Aama, Kaphill, Kinds, Lab, Macondia, Parade, Ru by RuPaul, Sadie + Jean, The Rad Black Kids, Tier, and Twelve Am. Brands that returned to the showroom were Shekudo, V. Bellan, Oríré, Rendoll, and Elexjay.