In 2024, television was once again a respite from the happenings that wreaked havoc on us. Dynamic costume design serves a high calling, it is purported as a means to further expound upon the universes showrunners, producers, and networks are aiming to present. Characterization is heightened when a series is able to key in on clothing that makes sense for a cast. Titular characters are further developed too when costuming matches who someone presents themself as. This year, from Shōgun in which Anna Sawai captivated screens in millions of households while Myha’la did the same in Industry, one thing was clear: their clothing also spoke volumes.
The series that resonated with us this year dug into plot lines that felt close to home. While others managed to captivate us with world-building that felt top tier. Regardless of what led you to tune into a series week after week, we’re betting that the textures, colors, and patterns utilized on screen to paint a larger picture of a character were equally compelling.
Below I’ve shared the costume design on television that kept me tuning in week after week in 2024.
Shōgun
Set in 16th-century Japan, Shōgun is a whip smart and nuanced series that FX thrust onto us this year. Alongside the chemistry of the main cast the costume design by Carlos Rosario kept many of us enraptured. Filled with magnificent colors and textures, the costuming by Rosario was vivid enough to tell stories of class divisions and also how duty reigned supreme in Japan during this time period. Yoshii Toranaga played by Hiroyuki Sanada was outfitted in regal attire throughout the entire series alluding to his influence. Tuning in weekly was also enjoyable since another leading character Lady Mariko (Anna Sawai) experienced a style evolution.
Reasonable Doubt
The crux of Reasonable Doubt always falls on Jax Stewart’s shoulders. Emayatzy Corinealdi succeeds each time she appears on the screen as the lead character of this Hulu/Onyx Collective series. However, none of her lines would be delivered as effectively if it weren’t for the costuming dreamed up by Derica Cole Washington for the series’ first season. Provi Fulp, the lead costume designer for the latest season, dressed Corinealdi in suits by Sergio Hudson and Alexander McQueen. These brands point to Jax’s affinity for sleek clothing and suiting–but they also present her as a self-actualized and confident powerhouse. Her graphic tees worn in her home speak to her love for hip hop. As a whole, this season was the ultimate level up style-wise, especially with the addition of Corey (Morris Chestnut) who donned pieces by Brunello Cucinelli and Tom Ford.
Industry
Pierpoint experienced quite a reckoning this season of Industry. But, what was also largely on display were the coded ensembles provided by costume designer Laura Smith. Smith’s fixation this time around was on pushing Harper Stern (Myha’la) into moreso muted clothing with a non-threatening color palette. Think browns and creams. Separately, Yasmin Yazdani played by Marisa Abela is balancing pencil skirts and chic blouses in the office with hoodies and baseball caps when she’s not at Pierpoint. Both of their attire this season points to the lives they are actively pursuing doggedly–notably, their clothing is the best barometer for how relentless they are in their pursuit of wealth, power, and status.
Three Women
Have you ever watched a show that delved into women’s inner thoughts on love and sex that they often ponder on their own incessantly? That’s the purpose of the Starz series Three Women. Gia (Shailene Woodley), Sloane (DeWanda Wise), Lina (Betty Giplin) and Maggie (Gabrielle Creevy) make up the ensemble cast. Television shows based on non-fiction books often struggle with world-building–however, Lisa Taddeo’s New York Times best-selling book Three Women doesn’t have this issue. The fleshed out costume design by Caroline Duncan makes the worlds of the characters expansive. Especially the world of Sloane, a successful restaurateur who is a part of a power couple alongside her husband Richard (Blaire Underwood). Her outfits were downright aspirational: vivid reds, gorgeous greens and other vivacious tones and textures breathed life into Wise’s character.
Abbott Elementary
For the series providing a close-up look at the fictional school Abbott Elementary in Philadelphia what serves the students best is being attuned to their needs. But, is this possible if the teachers aren’t dressed as their best selves? For this season of Abbott, teachers including Janine Teagues (Quinta Brunson), Gregory (Tyler James Williams) and Barbara Howard (Sheryl Lee Ralph) were the highest versions of themselves. Susan Michalek the lead costume designer for Abbott explored this for the fourth season of the series. Since Janine is straight out of her role at the district the level of sophistication of her style has elevated a tiny bit. Cardigans, printed dresses, and a middle part for her hair speak to this. Elsewhere, Barbara is showing up to school and outings in pearl embellished tops and faux fur coats. Lastly, Ava Colman (Janelle James) is still ever-stylish in silken tops and hues like black and electric blue.
Queenie
Aside from being one of the funniest shows of the year, Queenie, based on a novel of the same name by Candace Carty-Williams is a relatable series centering around grief and renewal. Set in South London, the Hulu show skirts around the feelings of the main character Queenie (Dionne Brown) and her reeling from a breakup that blows up her world. As viewers we’re brought into her world through her closest friendships, what she wears, and her hairstyles. The British-Jamaican experience is looked at under a microscope too. Queenie and her best friend Kyazike Mayagenda’s (Bellah) outfits showcase their inclinations and are a means for self-expression. Cobbie Yates, the lead costume designer of the series delivers a dynamic assortment of clothing that rings loudly in each scene.
