Piercing your skin a hundred times over with tiny, sterile needles may sound like a painful nightmare– but it isn’t as scary as it seems. “Microneedling is a process in which small needles varying from 0.25 mm to 3 mm are manually applied onto the skin to create controlled injury,” double board-certified pediatric and cosmetic dermatologist Dr. Karan Lal tells ESSENCE.
The minimally invasive treatment is used to stimulate collagen-producing cells, which can help minimize pores, hyperpigmentation, and sagging skin. According to the AAD, this is why the technique is also known as “collagen induction therapy” with the body responding to the injuries by healing them with skin-tightening protein. As a result, scars and wrinkles are less noticeable, while skin tone and texture become more even.
Here, Dr. Karan Lal explains the ins and outs of microneedling– and what to expect from an in-office treatment.
Why is microneedling beneficial?
“It’s a safe, reliable way of stimulating collagen for melanated skin,” Lal says. “It doesn’t have heat so it will not cause hyperpigmentation.” The procedure treats concerns from melasma to stretch marks with low downtime. You can receive the treatment every four to six weeks on any skin tone with visible improvement expected from a few weeks to months, according to the AAD.
Does microneedling require skin prep?
“You don’t need to prep your skin per se,” he says. “Some say stop retinol 7 days before,” avoiding active or harsh ingredients that may increase your sensitivity. However, Dr. Lal says using skincare products, including retinol, could benefit more than harm. “As a laser expert, I want your skin to be retinized as it boosts the effect of the treatment.”
What can I expect from a microneedling treatment?
As the first step of the treatment, your dermatologist will usually apply topical lidocaine for 15 to 30 minutes prior. “The skin is then cleansed to remove bacteria with an antimicrobial cleanser,” he says, to maintain a sterile skin surface. Next, “a gliding serum, usually with hyaluronic acid, is applied to help the microneedling pen move across the skin.”
The pen is then applied across the skin until redness or bleeding occurs, which is the “controlled injury” Dr. Lal mentioned. “For hyperpigmentation, blackheads, and over rejuvenation, small needle depths are used,” he says. Meanwhile, deeper needle depths are needed for surgery, injury, and acne scarring.
Does microneedling have any risks?
“The biggest risk is infection,” Lal says. “Your skin is open after the treatment,” so it is important to change pillow cases and keep your skin clean. “Invest in a hypochlorous acid spray that you can spray to reduce the risk of infection,” he adds. You should also avoid overusing microneedling, which can irritate the skin and make your skin concerns more noticeable. Or, if you’re prone to keloids, scarring can occur. You should consult with your dermatologist before treatment.
What does recovery look like?
As a non-invasive treatment, which means the needles do not enter the body, recovery is minimal. At most, you may notice skin irritation, redness or sun sensitivity in the days after microneedling treatment. However, you should wait at least 24 hours to apply makeup.
Can I use a microneedling device at home?
While you may be tempted to DIY, “I would not [recommend] because the at-home devices could put you at risk of infection due to improper sterile technique,” he says. “Dermarollers actually shear the skin as they rotate, not stamp the skin.” But if you are well-educated on the use of microneedling or a licensed professional, Lal prefers the Qure Micro-Infusion 3 Month or the BANISHER 2.0 by Banish microneedling stamp.
